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What you actually see up on the rock, what it costs, when to turn up, and which free vantage points beat the postcard.

A mile of stone runs from Castlehill down to the Canongate, with sealed cellars underneath it, and only some of the Old Town's walking tours are worth giving up an evening for.

Low October light is when the 1890 cantilever looks its best, and the boats stop for the winter at the end of the month, so you have a few weeks to cross it by train, walk the footpath beside it and sail underneath.
























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